Here’s an overview of the material we covered at our last shop suspension clinic. The notes below were written by Eli Ohlhausen. Eli has been tuning and racing motorcycles for many years, and is a graduate of the RaceTech suspension school. Both new street riders and riders setting bikes up for track days can benefit from this basic clinic.

-Kari Prager

Overheard At The Track…

“I’m getting a little front end chatter exiting turn three on the gas, try taking two clicks of rebound out and upping the pre-load 5mm” Sound like gibberish? It did to me too a few years ago, I remember thinking “wow, this guy must be fast”. Although suspension technology has grown increasingly sophisticated over the last decade, the principles involved and terminology used to describe them is fairly straightforward. A better understanding of them can aid in the correct setup of your bike and yield a more comfortable and confidence inspiring ride. At its most basic level, a shock absorber or fork is designed to convert kinetic energy into heat. They do this through the use of spring pressure and oil damping. When a bike hits a bump, the energy generated is stored by the spring as it compresses. As the spring extends, the stored energy is dissipated by oil being forced through machined orifices or past bending/flexing shims.

Basic Shock Adjuster Terminology And Effects

Pre-Load: This is the amount of pressure applied to the spring with the bike unloaded (hence the “pre” in pre-load). This adjustment is used to compensate for the weight of the rider, passenger and any luggage. When correctly set, it will allow the suspension to operate in the middle of its travel where it is most effective. Preload adjusters can be threaded rings, remote hydraulic units or even simple shims.

Static Sag: This is the distance the bike settles under its own weight. It is adjusted with spring pre-load as well. Some manufacturers or tuners use it instead of regular sag, although both methods should yield the same or similar results.

Rebound Damping: These adjusters can have the same appearance as compression adjusters, but they control how much resistance is offered to the suspension extending. Its adjustments are also indicated in clicks or turns and follow the same principles and guidelines as compression damping.

Sag: This is the distance the bike settles when loaded (it is set by adjusting the pre-load on the rear shock, as a rule). As a rule of thumb, a bike should settle approximately 1/4 of it’s suspension travel when loaded. Sag is computed by measuring the distance from the axle to a fixed point on the subframe with the bike unladen verses fully loaded. Sag is set by adding or subtracting preload.

Compression Damping: These adjusters are usually either a slotted dial for a screwdriver, or a knob. They control how much resistance is offered to a force which compresses the suspension. Typically they will be at the bottom of a shock or fork (this is not a hard & fast rule, read the manual). The adjustments are usually expressed as “clicks” or turns,this refers to the number of turns an adjuster makes (or number of “clicks” if it has internal detents) when turned out from all the way in. (note: do not apply undue force to an adjuster when turning it all the way in, it is to be lightly seated only).

Spring Rate: This is a measurement of the stiffness of a spring, it is usually expressed as a number which designates kilograms per millimeter (kg/mm) meaning how many kilos required to compress the spring a given distance. Therefore a 5.0 shock spring would not be as stiff as a 5.4.

Basic Suspension Adjustment Process

1. Read the owner’s manual that came with your bike.
2. Read and understand the manual, follow all procedures and warnings regardless of what I am about to tell you.
3. Write down the settings your bike has to begin with, this is your baseline which you can return to as a frame of reference or to zero out your changes if you hopelessly screw things up.
4. Set your sag (you’ll need help with this one).
5. Set your compression and rebound to the stock settings given in your owner’s manual.
6. Find a section of road which has a good combination of bumps and turns and is lightly traveled. Ride back and forth a few times to get a feel of how the bike is working.
7. Adjust your compression damping all the way in and ride the same route again. This will no doubt be mis-adjustment and yield a harsh ride. This is an exercise that will allow you to feel what effect the compression adjuster does. When done, return it to stock settings and repeat the process with re-bound damping adjustment.
8. Ride the bike with stock settings again and then start adjusting in an attempt to improve the ride. This requires patience as it can be hard to tell if you are going in the correct direction or using the proper adjuster to get the results you want. As a rule of thumb, make one adjustment at a time to avoid confusion, and write it down.

1. Be Smooth. The limited traction available on wet roads demands subtlety whith throttle and brake application, this is most crucial when the bike is leaned over.
2. Evaluate Available Traction. Obviously, the amount of traction a road surface will provide changes, as it becomes wet, the amount of degradation will vary from one road surface to another. Be especially careful when transitioning from one type of pavement to another. Additionally, debris on the road (leaves, pine needles, mud, etc.) will have an even more dramatic reduction in grip.
3. Rain Riding With Bald Tires Is Like Poking The Reaper With A Pointy Stick. A tire’s tread is only there to channel water away, without this you hydroplane. Another point to keep in mind is that temperatures are generally lower during the rainy season in the bay area which will combine with the water to extend the time needed to get your tires up to the correct operating temperature.
4. Keep Warm And Dry. Rain riding takes an enormous amount of concentration, try to eliminate any distractions. Not only is it miserable to ride when sopping wet, it’s hard to stay focused on the road when the first rivulet of icy water hits your crotch.
5. If You Have Abs, Use It! Anti lock brakes allow you to ride harder with less drama in the wet. Many people have ridden their bikes for years without ever engaging the ABS feature. We always stress the importance of periodically using the ABS to familiarize yourself with the unique sensations that accompany its activation. Additionally, you can gradually increase rear brake pressure as you approach a turn and use the point of activation to estimate available traction. With or without ABS, allow for increased stopping distances when initiating your braking.
6. Free Standing Water On The Roadway. Don’t laugh, we have encountered it on more that one shop ride. The danger here is not so much from a loss of traction, but from drowning the bike. The susceptibility to this varies from model to model. It’s best to ascertain the depth of the water and see if it rises above the point where air enters your machine and only make an attempt if it is below this. One caveat here, once you have entered the water, you have reached the point of no return… do not back off the throttle.
7. Other Hazards. Some areas/situations to be aware of: Painted lines, manhole covers and buttered Teflon have roughly equal coefficients of friction-look out for them when turning. Avoid the center of the lane at intersections and tollbooths, cars will drop oil there when stopping. Gas stations and the exits of car washes can be treacherous due to oil and soap scum accumulations. Most pundits agree that the first 15-30 min. of rain are the most treacherous because all the oil gets lifted off the road and goes into solution (this may be specious, but it couldn’t hurt to be cautious). Finally, many car drivers have difficulty driving in the rain, some drive the way the normally do without regard to the decreased stopping distances. Be ever vigilant to the changing patterns of traffic in the wet.

Further notes on the chalk board:

Tires: Traction = Pressure/temperature/profile/tread depth — a wet weather tire needs plenty of tread, plenty of sipes, an even, rounded profile.

Suspension: – if you have a choice, set softer than you would set for high speed dry weather riding.

Technique: – Smoothness is everything! Riding in the rain is fun, it does not have to be scary, and it builds skill rapidly.

Rider: – You will be happy in the rain if you are warm, dry and confident!

Gear:

Suits

1. Gore-Tex Combi Suits
2. Rainsuits over leathers or not waterproof gear
3. Trashbags with holes cut for arms and head, plus lots of duct tape.

Gloves

1. Gore-Tex Gloves (Held, Olympia, Triumph, etc.)
2. Glove covers – work for short time, but water leaks around cuffs.
3. Motocross gloves and electric grips. Hands are wet but water is warm. (Wrinkly fingers but warm hands.)

Boots

1. Gore-Tex Boots
2. Gore-Tex socks inside riding boots (boots get wet; feet stay dry).
3. Totes or similar overboots. (Rubber booties for over regular boots.)

Electrical accessories:

1. Electric vests & grips are wonderful in wet, cold weather.
2. Fog or driving lights make you more visible to other traffic.
3. High intensity bulbs or driving lights help you to see better.

“I think riding in the rain is the most fun kind of riding, and I learn the most about riding techniques when I ride in storms and fog.”

-Kari Prager

A clean, well-maintained motorcycle.

Current services all up-to-date, tires with plenty of tread, safety inspection to check condition of tires, cables, lights and brakes.

Recommended hardware & tools:

BMW or aftermarket toolkit, tire gauge (use every day), small vise-grip pliers, Flat repair kit, extra C02 inflators. (If tube-type F 650 et al. then spare rear tube and Small tire irons.) Duct tape & electrical tape. (partially used rolls take up less space) Misc. hose clamps, fuses, silicone seal, assorted nuts and bolts. Bulb kit, or spare headlight, taillight, brake light at a minimum. Spare sparkplugs and fuel filter (optional, depending on mechanical skill). Shop rag and hand cleaner. Cargo straps or extra bungees.

Riding gear.

Helmet, heavy, warm gloves & light hot-weather gloves, (at least one should be waterproof), boots, good riding suit (jacket & pants), either waterproof “Gore-Tex” type with waterproof liner, or leathers used with light rainsuit. Waterproof gloves and boots or glove & boot liners. Electric vest (not absolutely necessary but very nice). Small stuffsacks for organizing your gear and clothing. Light reading, tour guides & trrip reports (print them out).

Soft goods and personal items

Cash, credit cards, auto club & roadside assistance cards. Water bottle w/fresh water. First aid kit w/extra ace bandage. Pocket knife. Sunglasses, extra visor, visor cleaner. Sunscreen (for face and neck especially). Aspirin/Ibuprofen, vitamins, antihistamines, insect repellent. Swimsuit, towel, soap and shampoo. Toothbrush, toothpaste, tissues, extra toilet paper. Light shoes or camp shoes to wear when boots are off. At least one set extra socks, underwear, undershirt. Extra turtleneck shirts, thermals, etc. for warmth. Sweater or electric vest for under riding suit.

Miscellaneous handy stuff

Cell phone. Padded bicycle shorts. Tinted visor or visor strips for helmet. Business cards and address organizer. Camera, sketchbook, journal. BMW Motorcycle Owners of America Anonymous book. List of contemporaneous motorcycle rallies and special events. Back-road atlas, the more complete the better, can use alone or with Garmin GPS. Long cable lock for locking jacket and helmet to motorcycle. Bungee anchors for tops of saddlebags (where applicable). Lots of earplugs (a “must” for long rides). Accessory socket on motorcycle. An electric vest. “Neck-up”, scarf or other neck protection. Light weight gloves as well as warm, waterproof gloves. Small binoculars (fun to have in thewide-open spaces).

You’ve taken delivery of your new motorcycle, it has been delivered to your house, and now you have to decide what to do next…

Starting out safely:

The first step is to become familiar with the bike. The sales process should have introduced you to the bike, but now is the time, with no distractions around, to reaquaint yourself with the bike. Check over all the controls, adjust the mirrors, be sure the bars feel like they are at a comfortable angle, and run through the starting drill. If you are sure you have no questions about the controls, you are ready to start riding around your neighborhood. It is best to stay on roads with which you are familiar, and even try to confine your route to right-hand turns (safer, since no cross-traffic to deal with). As a new rider, you will be practicing starting from a stop, smooth shifting, smooth braking, downshifting, and cornering at a moderate speed.

If you have already taken the Motorcycle Safety Foundation introductory class, then you can be practicing the lessons you learned there. If you are a re-entry rider, and you are building on your past experience, it is all the more important that you start out carefully, re-introduce yourself to riding, and build your skills gradually.

Where to practice:

Once you are comfortable with the basic operation of the motorcycle, you can get extra practice in a safe environment by visiting one of the large, empty parking lots that are now so common in this area. We use the parking lots by Sun Microsystems and Shoreline Amphitheatre as convenient practice spots, and you can use these on the weekends or find your own (schools or college) empty lot. The basic exercises to practice are low speed maneuvering, starting and shifting smoothly, stopping at a mark (at successively higher speeds), and perhaps some cone slaloms. The point of the process is to get you so accustomed to the controls that you do not have to think about the brakes, throttle or clutch. These controls should be operated without thought, and the way to that state is through practice!

Local practice roads:

You’ve done your low speed practicing, and you are ready to take some rides! Fortunately the Bay Area has the best roads in the west for motorcycling, and the best ones start out right here in Mountain View/Palo Alto. If you are tired of your neighborhood surface streets, then you are ready for something more challenging. A nice local loop is to leave Mountain View/Palo Alto west on Charleston, follow this road to Arastradero, and stay on Arastradero all the way to Portola Valley. You can ride around the roads between Portola Valley and Woodside, or if you are confident, you can take Rte. 84 up the Skylonda (4 Corners) and stop for coffee at Alice’s Restaurant. This is a favorite motorcyclists’ hangout, and you should not be surprised to find 100 or more bikes there on a nice spring Sunday. This road is not difficult to ride, but can be heavily traveled, so watch out for traffic and never cross over the double yellow line!

Route 84 continues west from Skylonda and ends at San Gregorio and the Pacific Ocean. You can park at the San Gregorio State Beach and stretch your legs (the rangers always let bikes in for no fee…) or park at the San Gregorio General Store for coffee, sandwiches and all kinds of strange and useful odds & ends.

Highway 35 runs north and south along the coastal ridge separating us from the Pacific Ocean fogs, and can be accessed from Highway 92 (Half Moon Bay). You can take Canada Road from Woodside north to 92, then west to the 35 turn-off, then south on 35 to Skylonda, and left on 84 back to Woodside and Portola Valley.

Roads to explore:

There are many other small roads that connect the lowlands to Highway 35… Black Mountain Road, Old La Honda, Page Mill Road, Stevens Canyon/Highway 9, Highway 9 from Saratoga. There are others going off west like Tunitas Creek/Lobitos Creek (opposite Black Mountain Road), Old La Honda, Alpine Road (opposite Page Mill). These roads are all tight and slow, and make excellent practice roads to build your skills. Some can be damp and shady, or after storms they may be covered with pine needles and leaves, so use common sense, and don’t be embarrassed to turn around and take a different route if it doesn’t suit you.

If you live in the East Bay, you have two wonderful practice roads in your backyard… Mount Hamilton Road (Hwy 130) and the Calaveras Reservoir Road that is the extension of Hwy 237. Both of these roads are tight, twisty, full of corners and reward slow, smooth riding style… perfect practice roads, and the views are delightful.

Harry “Doc” Wong and his riding clinics:

Another local resource for newer riders is Dr. Harry “Doc” Wong. Wong’s Sunday training rides take place regularly each month, and are group rides with volunteer leaders, aimed at riders who wish to develop their skills. The ride starts with an introductory lecture covering that day’s skill, then the riders head out for the morning, broken up according to your level of experience. Doc Wong’s ride program can be found at www.docwong.com, or send an e-mail to: docwong@aol.com.

Shop Rides and Clinics

Monthly Shop Rides from CAL:

When you feel ready for a group ride, our shop ride typically leaves at 9:00 on the first Sunday of every month. The ride may be short or long, easy or challenging, you’ll know ahead of time if you check the shop website, or ask to be added to the e-mail notification list.

Our shop also cooperates with Doc Wong in hosting introductory dirt-riding clinics at Hollister Hills SVRA and Clear Creek SVRA. These are intended for beginning dirt riders on any brand, and especially to purchasers of BMW R 1150 GS, F 650 GS/Dakar and Triumph Tigers. You’ll get a safe and rational introduction to dirt riding, in a controlled environment. This way, you’ll feel confident in joining us for long dualsport rides in the Sierra foothills and on the Eastern Slope.

Finally, when your skills are developed and you are ready for the next step in your riding education, join us for a day at the track (Laguna Seca or Sears Point) under the expert tutelage of Reg Pridmore, through his CLASS Rides program, This is a safety-oriented skills building day held at two of the finest racetracks in the US, and you will be thrilled! Also you will become a better rider for sure.

Group Rides with the BMW Club of Northern California and Central Cal BMW Riders:

These two local BMW clubs offer rides of varying degrees of difficulty. Both clubs encourage new riders (potential members) and both clubs host rallies, camp-out/overnight rides and various riding-related activities. Great socializing opportunities and support. For more information go to the respective websites:

NorCal BMW is www.bmwnorcal.org

Central Cal BMW is www.ccbr.org

Or come by the shop for a free newsletter and calendar of upcoming club events.